Holiday Wrap

The last of the finals have been given, and the first term is officially over.  Time to look back, reflect, and peer ahead to the new year.  Here are updates on half of the 16 posts that I have made while living in Salone.  Return to Africa will then take a vacation (Tokeh Beach, here we come!) until school starts again on January 9th.  Happy Holidays!




At one of the few Christmas trees found in town.

We've Been Adopted! - Our Port Loco mom, Zainab, calls us occasionally asking how we are doing and when are we coming back to Port Loco to visit.  We always say, "Sometime," but are not quite sure when we will get up north again.  Gone are the days of spaghetti, mayonnaise, and sardine breakfasts.  It is strictly oatmeal with dates or cornflakes with bananas now. The half-liter bags of filtered water that we first experienced in Port Loco are a favorite of Ann's, especially if they are refrigerated.  A pack of 20 now costs 4000 Leones, up from 3000 Leones a couple of weeks ago.  Inflation is on the rise here.

Mi Casa, Su Casa - Our battles with critters have become routine.  Four mice have been buried in our garbage pile, victims of their own avarice.  I didn't even have to put out the poison for the last two.  They simply found a way into the drawer that I keep it in and ate through the foil pouch to get at the little blue pellets.  Many Stewart the spiders have been spotted and swatted when they get within broom range.  One particular episode we remember vividly was a palm sized Mrs. Stewart, sporting an egg sack up high in a corner.  Standing precariously on a chair I took aim with the broom, swung, and managed to bring down bits of the ceiling, but no spider.  The egg sack was dislodged however and disposed of outside where little baby spiders belong. The Mrs. scurried away not to return, we hope.

We are often visited on weekends by PCVs posted nearby villages.  They come to Kenema to shop and visit the regional office.  They power-up their many electronic devices at our place because they don't have electricity.  In many ways, life is no different for them here than in the States.  Hours are spent texting, on the phone, cruising Facebook, sharing photos and videos, and watching downloaded movies.  One of them told me her first week back in the U.S. is going to be devoted to playing video games.

Keeping Up Appearances - I am happy to be short-haired again after my second trip to the barber shop.  I have noticed that quite a few women, especially students, wear wigs.  It seems to me that a wig would be uncomfortable in hot weather.  The hottest month here is February.  I will look for a decrease in wigs then.

Two Mustaphas - Security guard Mustapha will from time to time still try to convince us that Islam is the only way, but I think he is beginning to realize that we are very poor conversion prospects.  One of his dreams is to go to the United States and convert the whole country.  We tell him his chances of that are pretty slim. He is excited about going to Freetown to study Islam for four months.  He will quit his security job here.  We may never see him again.  Math Mustapha is busy teaching.  We have not seen him since the first week of classes.

School Has Begun - I ended up with 15 students.  On the whole I enjoyed my teaching, which, because of the class sizes, was intimate.  I got to know my students well.  The majority are extremely dedicated to getting the most out of their classes.  Ann, on the other hand, had 270 students in her 6 classes.  Most of these students were the poorest (in terms of academic ability) in the institution.  Unfortunately, they are in the Teacher Certification program hoping to become middle school teachers.  Not only are they by in large ill-prepared for college, a good percentage (~25%) think nothing of cheating shamelessly on their assignments and exams.  I got a first-hand view of this as I helped Ann proctor two of her final exams (to classes of 120 and 75 students packed in a room).  We were both worn out after each of the three-hour tests.  Every technique known to students: talking, exchanging test papers, long glances at a neighbor's paper, secreted notes, you name it, was tried. 

We both mentioned our disappointment in this behavior to colleagues.  Their typical reaction was a shrug because they know all too well that cheating is ensconced in the entire educational system here.  It is a big problem that has no simple solution as exams count for 60-70% of the final grade.  Ann's colleague told her that a couple of years ago the faculty went to the administration complaining about the lack of admission standards.  The response was, "Do you want to have a job?" Of course this problem is not restricted to Salone.  I have witnessed in my former institution that when the call for more students is made (usually for financial reasons) standards are lowered.  In Sierra Leone though, cheating to many seems to be looked at as more of a game, an accepted means to success, preferable to attending class and studying. If you can get away with it, you win the game.

Waiting For The Dough - We have had two more banking experiences since our first.  The one in November started badly just like our first visit. This time there was just one teller doing both receiving and paying resulting in a long line.  Ann got mad and asked to speak to the manager which resulted in two additional tellers opening up windows, so we were out of there in less than 30 minutes.  Many of the Salone customers thanked Ann for complaining and getting the extra service.  They insisted that she go to the head of one of the lines. They tell us that complaints from Salone customers will carry no weight, but white skin has that power...sadly.

In December I went to the bank on my own.  Entering, I saw the usual lines, ten deep at each teller. Not bad, but almost a guaranteed one hour wait.  The enquiries line was short and fast.  The man checking my balance, wrote it on my withdrawal slip and then to my surprise told me I should go see the accountant behind the locked door.  Without Ann there I must have looked befuddled. He directed the doorman to take me back to the air-conditioned inner sanctum.  The doorman introduced me to a man at a desk saying, "He doesn't know how to fill out his slip."  I assured the accountant that I did indeed know the procedure and I filled it out.

A colleague of mine in the math department was in the bank at the same time.  I had greeted him briefly while I was waiting in the Enquires line.  As I sat at the accountant's desk, I noticed my colleague at the division between the regular customers and the "preferred" ones.  I was too embarrassed to look his way.  I was elated to have my banking done in less than 30 minutes, but deflated by how it was accomplished.  The accountant must have been embarrassed too because after he delivered my three packs of fifty 10,000 Leone bills each to count, he disappeared.  The count was good this time. I exited the bank feeling like I needed a Brink's security truck to take me home.

Outside the bank on the street is a natural place for beggars to situate themselves, in particular people in wheelchairs. They don't accost you.  They just look at you and wish you a good day.  Hard to walk on by.  Ann and I dole out the occasional 1,000 Leone note to people who beg, but we know we can't give away a lot.  Banking has become a big guilt trip for me.

Kai Yea Gaw Ma - We both are terrible at Mende.  We have decided to suspend lessons for awhile, but not before asking Mr. Brima how to say, "I don't understand."  Ngiikɔ (Geiko)

Rocky Branch Greets Seydi International - The student letters from Seydi International arrived in River Falls last week!  The first complete exchange has been made. The Rocky Branch students are now describing what their typical day is like to their pen pals.



Sign on new Walka Fast restaurant.